Spain

The Rock

We left Marrakech by train in a first class sleeper. An uneventful and comfortable journey to Tangier. The ferry from Tangier to Algeciras was also uneventful and speedy. They were using one of the Australian designed Devil cats. A highlight was the Rock of Gibralter (Dim still does not fully understand the strategic ramifications of any World War 2 game and "the Rock"). I was excited!

Note to overseas travellers! Do not under any circumstances let Dimitra organise train/bus/airplane departure times. Sure.. how was she to know about the daylight savings currently underway in Europe, or the two hour time differential between Morocco and Spain. At long last we got a bus to Malaga and our car hire awaited. A brand new Renault Megan, with a bare 40km on the ODO. Now we were free! Beware any one expecting tourists on the right side of the road.... what did that street sign mean anyway?

GRANADA

Soon we were in Granada, where Muslim Spain met its demise in the 14thC. Granada was great, although it is a nightmare to drive. The city is overlooked by the Alhambra. A red rock of a fortress encompassing the old Muslim fortress and the new European palaces which were built by their replacements.

Enough of that boring crap... Granada rocks! We stayed in the old city, a compact city of narrow coblestone laneways that pass themselves off as main roads. The city was spotless and popular. The oldies were out with their family right up till midnight, mixing with the crowds of younsters and tourists. All seemed very pleased to be out and sucking down a gelati or two. Puts our Australian civilisation to shame. We lock em all up in front of the telly. Which brings us to the main event in Granada and I am not talking about the footy.

Bull fight

Ole! the crowd yells, standing in their seats as yet another young bovine charges the matador. A series of close passes sees the young matador grab the bull in an embrace, much like a couple waltzing in time. Stepping away the matador bows whilst the bull comes to halt, having lost his target. But not all goes the matadors way. In the 4th match of 6 (just after half time) the young matador was tossed and gored, being flung by his ankle. Moments before he had performed a most daring maneuver. He got down on one knee before the bull with his back turned, and bowed to the crowd. This maneuver and the following misteps that lead to his injured leg had the crowd in rapture. But he went on to finish the fight. What a match! They even paraded the dead bull on a victory lap of the arena. I am sad to say that I was objectly horrified, yet inthralled by every maneuver. I loved the event. I could not tear my eyes away. If was a bull, and was set for slaughter, I think I would prefer this method of being sent off. Rather that than the slaughter house. I have heard that Barcelona has banned bull fights all together, but has had trouble convincing the population. I was not expecting the event to be enjoyable. I really am at an ethical empass.

Whilst in Granada we also visited the Sierra Nevada. An alpine mountain range popular with skiers and hikers. We climed a little further than the road would take us and found a little snow still remaining on the slopes, but unfortunately the view was blemished by thick cloud (note to self: Dim really, really does not like climbing mountains).

We also visited the Las Alpujarras, a series of small villages which border the southern edge of the Sierra Nevada. The towns themselves are dug into the steep hillsides, stacked one on top of the other, with narrow winding pathways leading between. At a place called Pampaneira we tasted the best water of our lives. Ice cold and fresh from the spring. Only down side was the miserably small bottle that we filled up. After the trip we returned to Granada for some Flamenco action. New ODO reading 450km.

Flamenco

Sitting in an theatre overlooking the Alhambra we were treated to a choreographical display of Flamenco dancing. Dim was thrilled, I was excited. My feet stomping with the dancers, All I wanted to do on the walk back was stomp and shout OLE! The dance troop included ages from 7 to 30. The younguns had Dim in stiches, whilst the solo performance of the lead stars was outsanding. The music was supplied by a 7 piece band including guitars, percussion, flute and a dead ringer for Mick Moloy.

and so onto "Alcala del Jucar"

New ODO reading of 999km.
On the edge of Castile, to the north of Valencia on the edge of "man of Lamancha" country we found the most stunning village of Alcala del Jucar. Nestled in a sheer gorge, it is an oasis nestled in the surrounding arid terrain. A cascade of terracotta rooved houses descend from the cliff top to the river floor. Looking over all is a castle perched at the sumit. Absolutely "gorgeous". Our arrival coincided with the Brazil game. So we drank the local beer, learnt some bad Spanish and cheered against the locals who all seemed to follow Brazil. Damn the result but a good game none the less.

We nursed our hangovers up the village the next day (again note to self: Dim really hates climbing things). But the view was spectacular, as was the fantastic sculpture park at its sumit. The rusted steel people were fantastic. Great photo oportunity all round.

Barcelona

ODO 1500km
And so we left the charming village and found the big bad city of Barcelona (pronounced with a good lisp by all Spaniards). I hated the stinky city but loved the amazing big fuck off Gaudi church. I can't believe they get away with calling it a church. We visited other sites but nothing compared. And it is still not finished! Made the whole trip worth while.

So long stinky city and onto France.

Last stop in Spain

ODO 1822km?
We stopped of at Figures to see Salvadore Dali's home town. He left a legacy called the "Theatre Musea" in which lie a large number of his works, many tricks and optical illusions. The central courtyard includes a black cadilac, reportedly once owned by Al Capone. Insert 1 euro in the slot and it rains inside the car. Very bizare. Dim kept saying... "How does anyone think up this stuff. It is amazing".

Will tell more later for it is on to France.